Slept really well last night, though we were both stirred around 5:00am by the sound of the trains rumbling through town. Managed to drift back off until 8:30am, which felt like a luxury. We had tea, coffee, and croissants out on the veranda, looking out over the rooftops of Vernazza. The view was brilliant and the morning sun already warm - such a great way to start the day.
At one point, a farmer trundled past us on what can only be described as a mini monorail—a proper little hillside contraption. Only in Italy.
We packed up our bits and set off intending to walk the coastal trail to Monterosso, only to discover it’s one-way during the mornings… in the opposite direction. So, plan B: back to the train station and hopped on a quick train there instead. It worked out just fine.
Monterosso was buzzing - a proper seaside resort feel with sunbeds and umbrellas lining the beach in neat rows. We strolled along the promenade, taking it all in, and eventually found a section of beach that us mere mortals could use without paying a small fortune. It was lovely just to lie back and do absolutely nothing for a bit.
The sun was fierce, so we dipped into the sea a few times. It was freezing. Not the kind of gentle ease-yourself-in kind of cold—the full “brace yourself and dive in” kind. But refreshing, and definitely needed.
Lunchtime came, and I grabbed a couple of focaccia from a nearby place. Delicious. Apparently focaccia is the thing to eat here, and I can see why. Will definitely be sampling a few more varieties while we’re around.
Typing this next bit mid-afternoon as we were getting ready to walk back to Vernazza. We were aiming to leave around 3:00pm for the 2–3 hour hike. Tried to find the high route but couldn’t, so ended up paying for the main coastal trail instead.
It was packed. Lots of people heading towards us, which on those narrow paths meant constantly stopping to let others pass. We got stuck behind a slow group for a bit, but eventually got ahead and found our stride. We definitely prefer the quieter high trails where it’s just us and the views - but this route still delivered. Challenging enough, and we made good time.
First thing we did on arrival? Beers. Sat by the quay and drank them in minutes - so we marched straight back up the hill for round two.
Back at the apartment, we showered and got ready for the evening. Cracked open another beer on the veranda, music playing, sun dipping - one of those perfect little moments. Later we headed into town again for food. I went for fish and chips, Tash had calamari and chips, and we sat with a beer watching the sun set into the sea. Bliss.
Afterwards, we stopped by a small bar I’d had my eye on all day, and it didn’t disappoint. Tash ordered a couple of cocktails made to her liking while we chatted to three Austrian women and then an Irish family. I must admit, I got a bit tipsy by the end - okay, more than a bit - but it was a great end to a full day.
We eventually wandered home and crashed straight into bed. Another long one in the legs. To be honest, I didn’t expect these hikes to be quite as tough as they’ve been. Makes me feel a little guilty I didn’t research them more thoroughly.
But still—no regrets.
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