As it says in the title - how exciting!!
Life on a daily basis in the Dark household for a husband and father of 3 great kids...what can possibly go wrong?
Thursday, November 02, 2023
Friday, March 10, 2023
The Big Tour - Day 41 - Friday 10th March - Ha Long Bay/Home
Last day of this spectacular tour. We leave for home this evening.
Slept well, only woken when Tash started banging about getting ready for her Tai Chi, I got up and didn’t join in but had the experience of a lovely sunrise. It really was a bit special.
Had some food, I feel better today and then we went on the small boat to a lm platform and went on Bubble Boats out into the rocks for a bit. Light and Dark caves I think it was, it was fine, and what we’ve enjoyed so far.
Chatted to people on the boat who were nice and it was interesting to see how many people of our age and demographic are doing this sort of trip because their kids have left home and that.
Back to the boat for a relax and more bloody food. Paid the bill and got waved off by the captain and crew and got back to harbour. It didn’t seem as chaotic as before, perhaps we’re just used to it. Got allocated a coach and back to our hotel in loads of time, chatted to the manager who was very keen to see us pleased and our taxi came and we were at the airport bang on time. Everything has gone really well.
I’m on the plane typing this update so will complete all the others shortly and then watch a film.
Thursday, March 09, 2023
The Big Tour - Day 40 - Thursday 9th March - Ha Long Bay
Not feeling well
That's it!! Wonder what we did today..
Wednesday, March 08, 2023
The Big Tour - Day 39 - Wednesday 8th March - Ha Long Bay
Check out
Taxi free to airport
Pick up for Ha Long Bay trip
Oyster farm
Departure terminal
Really busy, arrivals and departures all congregating about.
Got a small boat to the larger boat. x9 people and x7 already on it. Nice and cosy
Got our cabins and then lunch. Fucking hell! They just kept coming out with more and more dishes. Nice enough but far too much.
Rest of the people are keeping themselves to themselves, not a particularly good group. Ah well.
Tash and I went out canoeing and he said just around one of the islands so we set off. And the island was large! We kept going and slowly panic was starting to creep in because I’d wondered if we’d missed the inlet to get back to the main boat and was tiring and didn’t want to go back ourselves as we’d been going for 50 minutes. Luckily the boat came into sight. They scraped off all the oysters and barnacles that had attached themselves during our canoe trip!! Scary. So I decided immediately not to go swimming there!!
Relaxed on deck for a short while and then got showered and changed,and listened to my JoolsD chill out playlist on our little balcony so that was nice and relaxing.
Fish eagles
Tuesday, March 07, 2023
The Big Tour - Day 38 - Tuesday 7th March - Hanoi/Mai Chau bikes
Decent sleep and down for breakfast at 7.00am, drive turned up 7.10am, 10 mins early and then fucked off leaving us. Luckily hotel brought him back, bit of a twat and continued to be so for the bus journey picking people up around Hanoi.
Just another thing to make me not warm to this place.
Monday, March 06, 2023
The Big Tour - Day 37 - Monday 6th March - Hanoi
Train arrived at Hanoi around 5.45am, we just crossed all the tracks to find the way out and get a Grab to the hotel. Unsurprisingly they weren’t ready for us so we dumped our bags and went for a walk around Hanoi.
We do things quickly it has to be said!! Went around the lake and watched so many people exercising either on their own or in large groups. That was so interesting to watch and made us feel guilty that we weren’t working out.
We just explored around, went through Train Street and found a couple of markets that were closed and ended up at Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum that Tash wasn’t allowed into because of her short shorts so I still went and took a look, not much going on. More walking and after breakfast went to the prison dubbed the Hanoi Hilton.
The way the information was written was so one-sided and biased from a Commission leaning it was a bit irritating to be honest and I gave up. They really were anti-American which doesn’t bother me other than it all felt like propaganda. “Our valiant comrades this and the violent oppressors that!”
More walking around until we finally got back to the hotel around 1.30pm and having not slept a single minute last night so booked 90 mins on timer and crashed out. I was knackered.
Woke up and went out and did more exploring and found the place where the train comes through the streets and had a drink there which was interesting when it finally came along - very touristy attraction.
Made our way back to the hotel for an early(ish) night
Sunday, March 05, 2023
The Big Tour - Day 37 - Sunday 5th March - Hoi An to Hue
Alarm at 7.00am so as to go to the gym before breakfast, but both of us couldn’t be bothered!
Picked up on time to travel to Hue and stop along the way.
We went to the Marble Mountains first which is where there are loads of shops all selling marble statues. Very impressive quality and size, weren’t really too interested and didn’t waste time there.
We then moved on to Ba Na Hills as we really wanted to go to the bridge with the hands and made our way there but we’re shocked to find out it’s actually a bloody theme park. We had no idea at all, it was like Disneyland!! This explained why tickets were about £40 per person and the driver was concerned we didn’t have enough time. Any normal people would have spent the whole day there. We thought it was just a cable car and bridge. Badly mistaken!!
So we boarded the cable car and it went on and on and on. So long and so high up. The hills were lovely, what we could see of them. Sadly, we’d picked a day where it was low cloud cover and extremely misty and hard to see further than 20 yards. And it was cold, Tash in a tiny thin strapped summer dress and me in shorts and t-shirt. It wasn’t exactly freezing but it was cold!
When at the top it wasn’t possible to see where to go for the Golden Bridge so we just guessed and had to get on another cable car to get to it. Quite funny as you could just make out the shape of the hands. Nightmare!!
We were patient and were rewarded with about 60 seconds of the mist lifting and I got some decent photos. We were conscious of time and were cold so didn’t think it worth spending more time up there in the rest of the park so came back much to the surprise of the driver, Hoa.
From there we headed to the Hai Van Pass that appears to have been made more famous by Top Gear, Tash and the driver both mentioned it along the journey. It was lovely up there in amongst the mountains and greenery and the winding roads but sadly again it wasn’t a clear day so photos weren’t that great. I can well imagine what it would be like in nice weather.
Once through the pass and a couple of stops for photos we ended up at a lagoon where they catch the oysters for pearls and stopped for some food. Then finally drove to Hue where Tash and I both fell asleep for an hour on the way. Said our farewells and had food at Mr Pho’s and bought some beers for the train journey ahead.
Bit of a delayed train and then we got to our cabin and at the time of writing this we were delighted to find that in our VIP cabin for 4 people we were the only 2. People keep looking in, we have a few stops ahead of us, so there’s every chance we might be alone for the whole journey. If we are that would be amazing good fortune as there are loads of people on this train, but then it is bloody huge. So many carriages.
It’s a sleeper train, we’re on here for 14 hours, should be interesting!
We’re quite settled, Tash playing Sudoku eating crackers and I have my music playing on the speaker and drinking beers. A trolly dolly just went passed and she has Tiger beers if needed, which is likely as Tash and I only bought four cans from Mr Pho. Well, I’ll come back to this later, I’ve loads of diary entries I need to complete, I’m about 5 days behind!!
Update. Some guy turned up and climbed into the bunk bed next to us, clearly not his, doesn’t speak any English at all so communicated via Google Translate. Then his family came along to see where he’d got to and all poked their head around the door saying hi to us. Quite funny.
So I went for a walk to find the beers lady and just kept going through all the carriages, you had our 4 berths, then 6 berths, then normal train seating and finally the last one so I couldn’t go any further was dark wood seats full with men and women in sky blue uniforms which was clearly the staff, I was in the restaurant. It was great, loved it. Got some more bees and came back again. Enjoying this because it’s so old you even see spaces and air when moving between carriages.
Toilet just went straight through to the tracks
We tried to get some sleep but it wasn't ideal, I was very conscious of people coming in and stealing our items so I got VERY little sleep at all
Saturday, March 04, 2023
The Big Tour - Day 36 - Saturday 4th March - Hoi An
Heavy heads this morning, not really in the mood for breakfast but had a bit anyway and then we’re picked up at 8.45am for the basket boats experience, and that was an experience!!
It was in one of those round palm leave/wicker boats that seem to be famous in this part of the country and we expected a nice slow row through the palm tree forest, that was NOT the case.
As we went down the river with our coolie hats on you could hear music, it was parry town on the river!! It was mad. There were guys doing the spinning around in the boat, a chance to stand on the chopped stems of palm trees, karaoke/disco groupings and even a chap throwing his net out onto the water to try and catch fish. He wasn’t too successful and then our boatman took us closer and I got on board and had a go.
I was no more successful than him but it was enjoyable to have a go and obviously a decent photo opp!! Bit more chaos trying to get through all the other boats and when we’d finished the girl said to us it’s a lot quieter in the morning! We thought that was busy enough but she said they get about 10,000 a day. Incredible, they must make so much money, we couldn’t imagine how busy the waterways would be with many more people on there!!
Our driver took us back to the hotel and we borrowed bikes again and cycled to town. Stopped at our short and dress one first but no one was there so went to Me Xe and collected that dress, no adjustments needed at all, it was perfect and Tash was thrilled with it.
We did a bit or touring round Hoi A before returning to Hay Hay and Tash tried her dress on, again perfect and she was even more delighted so that was good. Me less so! And I didn’t accept what work they’d done as the cuffs were too short and the stomach area too wide. I also felt it wasn’t quite long enough but I let that slide. They were happy to make adjustments for me and I’d go back later. I was pleased about that because as it was I wasn’t happy with it at all.
So we went back to the hotel for a relaxing afternoon and that’s exactly what we got. Just lazed by the pool although I did go into the gym for an hour and worked out. Was delighted that I was able to run 15 mins and feel good. I only stopped as my chest was tightening up, my legs were fine. So pleasing. Tash then had a facial so I went back to the room and sorted packing and money we need for the trips we have lined up from Hanoi.
We then went out for dinner and straight back to Hay Hay and Nina and she was as lovely and full on as yesterday. Very gushing girl, lovely. I was a bit anxious about my shirt and was pleased that they’d made a big improvement to it and I was happier now and accepted the changes. We did a review for them there and there and paid and left.
We wandered around Hoi An a bit more, it’s all very similar but different too, I found a couple of shops I really liked and bought some beer mats for the bar. Could have bought some posters too, they were great. Also we bought some lanterns for the garden, that’s a job for me when we get back as I’ll have to try and sort out lights to go inside them!
We got some food from a very popular restaurant and pudding from a street vendor we used last night, this time banana and Nutella pancake, could have had two!! Lovely. Then found a bar for a couple of beers and played cards. A group of women were loud and having a good night and had control of the playlist, I wanted to take over but held back. I think they all knew what they wanted and my music wouldn’t have been that!! I left them with Gotta Feeling by Black Eyed Peas so I was happy with that!
Back to the hotel, we’ve both really enjoyed Hoi An and as Tash said this is the one place we would have been happy to have stayed at for longer. It was a very touristy place and that was fine. We really did like it.
Friday, March 03, 2023
The Big Tour - Day 35 - Friday 3rd March - Hoi An
Up fairly early and down for breakfast that was quality, even had proper Coco Pops! So I filled up on those and donuts, breakfast of champions..
We got some bikes from the hotel and cycled towards the old town and the clothes shops as I’m tempted by a shirt. We went into a decent one and the girl there was so chatty that you can’t help but get sucked in.
I found decent material and pattern that I liked and made some other requests and agreed to the cost and got measured up, Tash then got suckered in and ordered a dress to be made too. In saying that, and hopefully they’ll be good quality, we’re getting made to measure shirt and dress for £60. So hopefully they’ll be great, we will see.
We then got some credit card wallets for the boys (and me) and a t-shirt for Brenda (and me!) and then found the spa that Tash was reading about last night and booked up for a massage as planned. Feels like we’re spending so much money but it’s all quite cheap, especially compared to what we’d be paying back home in the UK.
With that all done we jumped in the bikes and cycled out to An Bang beach, stopping a couple of times along the way to take photos of the guys working in the paddy fields and that. What was nice is there were so many other tourists doing the same thing. It was fine crossing the roads and all that so we survived without being run over or tooted at!!
We eventually found the Shore Club that is linked to our hotel and got great sun beds on the beach and settled down for the afternoon. The sea had waves so I was in there straight away. The air was cooler here but the sun was out so warm enough to be comfortable and catching it. A lot more bearable compared to what we’ve been experiencing in the last few weeks.
Water sports were there too so watching people on the banana boat and parasailing. I was happy just listening to my music and going in the sea. Nice and relaxing.
Kept going into the water and get battered by the waves but then had a couple of beers from the bar so that made it worthwhile. A memory to take from today is listening to Becky Hill, watching the waves crashing in with the sun on my back drinking beer (Huda) out of a bottle. In my element!! Do I really have to go home?!?! In saying that, I do miss the Dark Side Bar, is that a bad admission?
Bought some beer cosies from a beach seller and just had a lovely time, didn’t realise until later I’d got burned and was bright red, even after all this time in the sun!! Ah well.
Cycled back to the hotel and got cleaned up and sorted and then walked into town a lot earlier than yesterday so it was lighter and not quite so busy.
We went to Mr Xe but Tasha’s dress wasn’t ready so we got a drink and some street food and then walked down to the Five Senses Spa for our booked massage treatments. Tash had the four hands and I stuck with the traditional two. They went to town on our bodies, this was in no way a relaxing massage!! They really dug into us. That was fine, we’d been warned it wouldn’t be a relaxing massage! I felt good afterwards and we definitely got our money’s worth for he hour session.
We then walked back towards town but went on the river front and found a decent bar and had some more nibbles and then another bar and played cards.
We then went to where it’s really busy and loud and full of the happy hour bars and we went to one that had a live band and that was enjoyable and we had more beers there and even got chatting to some youngsters out on their gap year travels, one had been to Brookes Uni! We staggered home then, it was way past midnight and we were a bit drunk. A good day and night all told
Thursday, March 02, 2023
The Big Tour - Day 34 - Thursday 2nd March - Ho Chi Minh City/Saigon to Hoi An
Packed things ready to go later and then went for a walk, we headed for the Saigon Notre Dame and found it to be closed and full of scaffolding all around it. So we didn’t see it in its glory but to be honest it was a lot smaller than I expected when compared with the original in Paris.
Decided to continue on and look for the Jade Temple and stopped at the coffee shop that serves coffee to change your life. Have to admit that it was lovely!! Mine was iced and Tasha had one of those sweet ones. She didn’t complain although I’m sure she sorely wanted to!!
Also, she could go into the Templar as her shoulders weren’t covered but she didn’t miss much.
We walked back to the hotel and were soaked from sweating, it was very hot today. Got our bags, said goodbyes and took a Grab to the airport but got dropped off at the International terminal so after a mild panic we found we only needed to walk a bit to Domestic departure terminal. Checked in the bags and got a McDonalds and felt guilty for doing so.
Airport was fine and we got in our place to Hoi An on time. It’s going to be colder there by about 6-10 degrees which might feel quite a lot different. We will soon see, I’m typing this whilst on the plane.
Wednesday, March 01, 2023
The Big Tour - Day 33 - Wednesday 1st March - Ho Chi Minh City/Saigon
Today was our visit to the Cu ChinTunnels which I’ve been looking forward to from the time when we booked this trip. We got sorted and got our breakfast and coffee from over the roundabout and got picked up on time.
Went though the city collecting other people and we had quite a full coach by the time we’d got everyone, but it was a smaller 20 seater.
The guide today was a lad called Bao, he was very good indeed, very energetic and informative with loads of stories that he said were personal from his uncle. Must admit, the way he spoke I felt as though he was very anti-American and the angle of his stories continued in that vein. I didn’t mind, and the Americans on the coach didn’t seem to understand and were so in awe of the ingenuity of the VC soldiers. I had to remind Tash that it was like admiring the Nazi’s!
Although from my perspective without any involvement by the British in the war it’s not an issue so we could appreciate it. And it was clever and fascinating. And the way Bao kept referring to the Vietnamese guerrillas as ‘we’ kept confusing Tash.
Anyway, we stopped at a village that has crafts made by disabled people, and all these people are directly affected by the US use of chemical weapons in the war, specifically Agent Orange, that I was reading about in the War Remnants museum yesterday.
The crafts they were making were lacquered wood with eggshells and mother of pearl making up the pictures. They were fantastic and beautiful but they were bloody expensive. We were tempted but quite simply they were too much money, we’d have loved to contribute and also have one of these items but it was too much sadly.
We moved on and stopped at the Cu Chi Tunnels along with countless other coaches! Quite clearly this is the number 1 tourist attraction to tick off when visiting Saigon. Oh, forgot to mention, they prefer to call it Saigon instead of Ho Chi Minh City, so I’ll try and remember to do the same now!! Bao explained why, it’s to do with the central districts and moving out of the city.
That aside, he walked us through various parts that were set up in the grounds and he was experienced enough to move on when it was too busy knowing we’d return when quieter.
I loved it. These were genuine tunnels and forest that fighting and living took place in. It was fascinating learning how the Vietcong worked, lived and fought. Including the traps and hiding their scent against sniffer dogs and even the size of the tunnels and openings.
There was a firing range that you could have a go in, we didn’t, but the firing of the weapons and noise coming through the forest made the atmosphere even better. Except when we walked through the range and the firing was incredibly loud. Deafening!
We then got to crawl through a tunnel system, there were differing lengths and we did the 100 metres one, I was last and a bit slow so was on my own for much of it and it wasn’t pleasant. Felt a bit anxious about getting a wrong turn, but it wasn’t possible and one stage it really narrowed.
There was also a photo opp to go into a hole and hide, that was tight even though they’d increased the size for us tourists.
And that was it. A really interesting and absorbing experience, I’m really glad we did it and Tash enjoyed it too.
More stories on the way back and some sleep and then jumped off the bus at the first stop as I recognised it as close to our hotel and got showered and changed and emptied my bag and something was missing…where were my headphones??? I’d taken them as I knew it was a long journey and planned to use them but hadn’t in the end but they were nowhere. We’d been told to leave our bags on the coach as they’d not be needed and it would be locked.
I was so very pissed off and ‘knew’ they’d not fallen out and the driver had swiped them. I fired off emails and I knew the Kim Travel offices were nearby so marched to those. I’ve had them a long time and would have to write them off and get new ones but I couldn’t believe it.
So at the offices the girl phoned Bao and he in turn phoned the coach and after 10 mins got a call back, they’d been found “at the back of the coach”. Obviously I was absolutely delighted and relieved. I didn’t believe for one moment that was true but I was getting them back in about 2 hours time. Thank goodness for that.
So we carried on walking with some places in mind and Tash stopped by a jewellers and got her chain fixed and we headed towards the Exco tower by the river. It just gets busier and busier with respect to the towns we travel to.
We stopped by a sports bar and had a drink and then headed back towards Kim Travel offices and did some shopping and thankfully when we went to the travel office the headphones were correct. I could have cried!! So relieved. I love those headphones.
Back to the hotel briefly to get cleaned up and then off in another direction and found a really nice Indian restaurant and after that went to the Beer Garden pub we’ve seen. That was so busy with locals celebrating something and we had a couple of beers and got the cards out. This, for some reason, caused a lot of amusement with the staff. They kept pointing and chatting and laughing. Not quite sure why, they didn’t explain!
It wasn’t a late night and we went back and got sorted for heading off tomorrow. Really enjoyed today, the tunnels were so interesting and the experience was worth it, not a let down at all.
Monday, February 27, 2023
The Big Tour - Day 31 - Monday 27th Feb - Phu Quoc
Lazy morning again, no hurry to do anything.
Breakfast looking out over the sea and another planned day of relaxing although we do have an early flight tomorrow now so will need to be ready.
I spent about 2 hours doing the diary updates! I’m knackered..
Got ready to go out a bit earlier today and it was very lovely walking through the usual street around 4.00pm instead of a few hours later. Even busier and more manic than usual. If that’s possible.
We crossed over the bridge and walked further long the main road to try and find Long Beach. Took a couple of attempts but got there in the end and it looked lovely. Got a can of Tiger beer from a street seller and wandered along. There was a photoshoot taking place and we were getting in the way! Took some good photos ourselves and then walked along the beach and so glad that we did.
Made it to a bar that had bean bags and tables so settled there for a beer (or two/three) and just relaxed and the sunset was amazing, it really was fantastic, we called mum and chatted and eventually got a good photo when the guy doing his beach exercises got out of the way!
We decided to stay when the sun had gone down and have some food and that was lovely, but it was so surprising that the place emptied as soon as the sun cleared which was a shame. Anyway, it didn’t affect us and we enjoyed the moment.
What was weird was because we’d gone out early it was like only 7.00pm and it felt more like 10.00pm! Anyway, we started to make our way back and stopped at a barbershop and by the time the guy turned up we’d made friends with his two adorable little girls. They kept Tash busy with counting water bottles and generally being a little mischievous. They were lovely.
The guy did a good job on my hair so I was pleased with that, I’d only really wanted the back tidied up and hardly any off the top, got exactly what I wanted!!
We then continued our way back and stopped at the square we’ve been going to where we signed up for massages but they then said they were too busy which was a shame, so we went to the same bar as yesterday and when we sat down he greeted us with “welcome back” which made us smile. Only had a beer and a game of cards and then walked through the market that was busy again and got an ice cream.
Walking through fish street, as we refer to it, and we only saw 5 rats so that was down on usual!!
Back home without further incident and all done and dusted.
Walking along the Long Beach there were lovely apartments and lodges looking out onto the sea and we commented that the people in these would have no idea at all about the rest of the town. Very protected from the real side of it, we’re really pleased with where we stayed and what we experienced, we didn’t get the “sanitised” version and saw what it was like for normal people.
It’s been a good couple of days recharging our batteries and just relaxing with nothing whatsoever to do. But that was enough for both of us really as we’re ready to move on and we do like to be busy. We don’t feel we’ve wasted time or anything, there was no need to be rushing around the whole 6 weeks and this was good and worked perfectly.
Next few days will be busy though, can’t wait!! HMC should be fun. Loads to do there and we’ve booked up scooter tour and food tasting, should be a laugh!
Sunday, February 26, 2023
The Big Tour - Day 30 - Sunday 26th Feb - Phu Quoc
No hurry to get up this morning as we are literally doing nothing all day.
Booked some flights out of here to Ho Chi Minh City so it’s less time wasted on travel by boat and bus. Makes a huge difference to have a 90mins flight instead of 8-10 hours.
So we just relaxed outside listening to music, reading and wasting time. It was lovely and relaxing. First time we’ve properly “wasted time”. Felt a bit guilty by about 4.00pm though so even though we plan similar tomorrow it won’t be quite so bad.
I watched the Last Kingdom series I’ve started on this holiday, that’s season 2 completed now!! Tash did the washing and it all dried no problem, decent machine by all accounts, that might be our last washing done thinking about it. We will see.
Late afternoon we got showered and changed and walked into the main town and market like yesterday. That fish lane isn’t pleasant at all, you have all the smells and sights on the way and then coming home you have all the rats there. Loads this evening too!!
There wasn’t much else in the town so we returned to the same courtyard as last night but didn’t do the bistro again and instead had fish and chips and craft lager instead…we’re really embracing the Vietnam food and culture!!!
Spent the evening trying to sort out my Btinternet emails. Really waste of time, pissed me off. Lewis was a massive help and we worked getting him access at least. That was a couple of hours so was shit.
Walked back through the market, a whole lot quieter than last night and got some pearl earrings. Seemed desperately cheap, hope they’re okay.
Walked back and set off all the local dogs barking at us!!
Friday, February 24, 2023
The Big Tour - Day 29 - Saturday 25th Feb - Kampot to Phu Quoc
We both woke up this morning with quite heavy heads, Tash worse than me with a bit of a stomachache too.
We left the hotel after a bit of a discussion about whether we’d paid or not, but annoying because we had done and it was fine but I was stressing because we need to leave and be at the pick up point. Which didn’t matter too much because they arrived late anyway.
Spent the last of our Cambodian money and picked up 4 other travellers and made our way to the border where he just dropped us off and pointed us in the direction of some buildings! I managed to get a bit more info about what to expect on the other side and then Tash and I headed off, the other four having already gone.
I was worried about this process as reviews on Google suggested it’s an unpleasant experience but any concerns were unfounded and we just went through the normal visa and border checks. It was strange walking through no man land between the two countries, a good experience though.
We got through to Vietnam without hassle and then waited at a taxi place for about half an hour, we got a bit anxious and as we were questioning the locals the next minibus turned up. They were dropped off as they were off to HMC but we were taking to the port, given tickets for the crossing and waited at the platform.
The boat was busy and we just slept, both of us feeling the effects from yesterday.
At Phu Quoc we just walked along the pier and got a taxi to the town and after a stop at the ATM and Google maps taking us the wrong way we found our accommodation. It was down a small back street but it opens out onto the sea and is clean so we’re perfectly happy with what we’ve got. It’s just a few steps to the sand and water and the view is lovely. Just what I’d imaging the China seas to look like with fishing boats all moored up.
I started to feel really funny now and just slept for a couple of hours which helped me. Tash read and relaxed.
Felt better by about 5.00pm so we got ready and went out. We’re based in quite a rough/locals area so we’re walking through back streets, dodging scooters in tiny alleyways and avoiding dogs barking at you. It’s funny, the sea front view we have looks like paradise but the reality is different out the front of the house.
But we’re fine with that sort of thing, we can handle it and walked through smiling at people and responding to kids shouting hello at us all the time. The main road to the town is busy and we carried on into town and just guessed our way around. The first part is all very authentic and then we went through the fish market and starting to worry about food for the night.
We carried on exploring and got to the Long Beach area and this was more touristy with more westerners visible. We found a really nice area and settled for a French Bistro and had pasta! Yep, embracing the culture we are!!
We then walked through the very busy Duong Duong night market which was great. Got an ice cream and then made our way home over the bridge and through the rougher areas again. The number of rats we saw at the fish market was not good!! But they’re going to be everywhere, we have one outside our back garden but I’ve not told Tash about it!!
Back to the apartment with no drama and early night. We’ve got a nice place for a couple of days and going to take it easy.
Thursday, February 23, 2023
The Big Tour - Day 28 - Friday 24th Feb - Phnom Penh to Kampot
Early up and walked to Post Office and bang on 7.30am we set off. There was one other person on the bus and she kept to herself so we had the whole 12 seater to ourselves and made the most of it and spread out and either slept, watched Netflix or took photos of the countryside as we went through. There were a couple of stops as we dropped off the post but it was just a three hour journey in the end. Perfect.
We got dropped off at the depot in Kampot and our hotel, Rikitikitavi was about 10 yards away, couldn’t believe our luck.
This was way too early so we dumped our bags and wandered off to see what was around, not much to be honest. We were scratching around for ideas to do and it felt like we were just going to do whatever we did for the sake of it.
We did go past a tour place and they had the trip to Phu Quoc in one go so we signed up for that tomorrow.
We then approached a tuk tuk and agreed to go to Kep about half an hour away and their National Park. Didn’t really know what to expect and when the guy just dropped us off at a gate at the bottom of a hill and kept saying he’d meet us the other side we didn’t have a clue. So we just started walking.
It was a concrete path all the way through a lovely forest park but it was about 2 hours walk! Where did that come from?!?! It was good although unexpected. He was waiting at the end of the walk and suggested other things but we were happy to go back and check into the hotel.
He did take us through Kep itself and it was a nice enough seaside place with beaches and bars but as Tash noted it was quiet, it all feels that things are in place to accommodate tourists but they’re just not here at the minute. Bit of a shame really. Wherever we have been on this trip it’s been quiet in the way of the amount of tourists.
Checked in, our room was lovely. Very nice hotel. Had a couple of cocktails when we went out and had a call with the kids that was lovely. We then walked around the town looking for some where to eat and settled in a busy place that felt quite local. We had nice food and then ended up at a bar that had live music. That was good and we had a laugh, a few people chatted to us including the lead singer who was from London.
We got a bit drunk if truth be told and stopped at O’Neills bar in the way back for a couple more. I liked it in there and soon there were two Americans and a very loud/arrogant bore from Europe somewhere and the poor Cambodian girl he’d picked up/was paying for. She was in no mood for him and just sat with her head in her hands the whole time. It was surreal.
I couldn’t help but shake one of the US guys hands and say I’d admired his patience and he laughed.
Luckily the bore didn’t really notice as he was a big chap and would have knocked me out easily!!
Anyway, safely back although we were locked out and had to wake the poor lad asleep in his hammock who had the key!!
Interesting day.
Wednesday, February 22, 2023
The Big Tour - Day 27 - Thursday 23rd Feb - Phnom Penh
No breakfast at this place so when we were up we walked towards the genocide museum stopping for a coffee and food along the way.
The museum is actually the original school building where the atrocities committed by the Khmer Rouge took place. We had an audio tour and it was explaining all the rooms and what life was like. Obviously it was utterly appalling. Very upsetting. Didn’t take any photos, it’s not really appropriate.
Near the end we bought a book from a survivor of the camp incredibly.
When we were ready we got a tuk tuk to the killing fields that are about 25mins away. We walked around there with another audio tape and learned the history of what happened and what they found. Again, the stuff of nightmares. It was terrible. The monument to the people dug up from the mass graves there held about 5,000 human skulls. Many of the graves have been left alone too.
We took our time and took it all in. And then got the tuk tuk driver to take us back to the city, and he dropped us off at a very nice location that is clearly new buildings and we walked through a very affluent area. It was strange, we’d only experienced the rough side of the city but clearly they’re trying to clean it up and improve it. Certainly seemed to be working.
We stopped at a bar over looking the road and watched the world go by, such a busy place. Then made our way back to the hotel after checking where we need to be tomorrow. Not much to re-pack and then out again. Walked around some of the nicer places and found a decent restaurant and again over looking the traffic and life and had good food and drink, I even treated myself to a banana split!
Got some food and water for travel tomorrow and then an early night. It’s been a draining day emotionally.
Tuesday, February 21, 2023
The Big Tour - Day 26 - Wednesday 22nd Feb - Cambodia/Siem Reap to Phnom Penh
6.00am alarm, breakfast and checkout and then picked up by our driver at 6.45am. Got a few more people and went through the morning traffic and school kids on their scooters. I still can’t get used to the traffic rules in this country, there’s be so much road rage in the UK if anyone drive remotely like this!!
Bit of a drive through the countryside and then boarded the boat that would take us to Battambang, any concerns about the baggage weight we’re immediately dispelled as they didn’t batter en eyelid when I passed the bags up to store on the roof of the boat.
We were sat on two sides within the hill and there are about 20 passengers, most appear to be French which was interesting. In fact, I think they all were with us as the obvious exception!
We set off down the river and a couple of people climbed up and sat on the roof, we were too late to do so and it would have been too uncomfortable so stayed inside and out out headphones on. We went down the river for a couple of miles and then it fed into the lake and open water.
We passed a small water village, complete with floating church and then into the open water. A bit rough if I am honest, people at the back were getting splashed and it did cross my mind to get hold of a life jacket and I did make a mental note of what I’d do it we capsized. Sure it will be fine but it doesn’t inspire confidence on these little boats out here in the rough waters. So if this is my last post on here then I hope you’ve enjoyed reading my updates…
Well, we made it over the part of the lake that was necessary and back into a river and very soon we were passing through a floating village, a bit one too.
We stopped very briefly a couple of times to pick up good for transport or even a couple of locals. Kids were waving all the time from their wooden houses being supported by metal and plastic oil drums.
The river was also busy with numerous mini boats that have the long pole with small propellers on them. Some of them were really bombing along. Didn’t take too long to get through the village, we’ve only been travelling for an hour and 20mins and it feels longer.
I’ve been writing the diary and listening to the music Spotify allows, something is wrong with the downloads and most of my songs won’t play, it’s really pissing me off.
We stopped for a break and then continued on our way passed so many individual villages and kids waving at us. We then slowed to walking pace, the river narrowed and was very slow, our weight and depth causing really problems and often the oarsmen had to push us out of mud. I genuinely expected them to tune back or kick some people off!!
But we got through it and the river widened after about 90 minutes of it. Both Tash and I sat on the roof of the boat and then it got too hot so Tash went down but I persevered and stayed up there until we landed at dock. Well, I say dock but it was just the riverbank with a few men offering tuk tuk services which was useful as we were 6 miles away and the time was 2.30pm.
We’d been travelling since 7.45am and our minibus to Phnom Penh was due at 3.15pm so we had a frantic journey in a knackered tuk tuk but we made it.
It was a small and tight 12 seater and it was full, so it was lucky that we were on time and that we’d booked. So we settled in for a 6 hour journey. Stopped once at petrol station for half an hour and then carried on and we listened to music or watched the programmes we have downloaded. Mines just finished which is why I am updating this post now. It’s dark now and 6.30pm, I think we have another 2-3 hours, so there might well be another stop! I just want to get there now though.
We stopped again on the outskirts of Phnom Penh and then dropped people off at various points along the way into the city.
The last stop was ours and we were some way from our hotel, we managed to get a tuk tuk driver to understand where to take us and he did so. A chap was in reception leaving early because he had a cockroach in his room so that didn’t bode well but we thought we’ve lived in the jungle and rainforest so we can do this. Spoiler alert - we had no problems at all and didn’t see any.
Had a look at the rooftop pool and the vista of Phnom Penh and surprised how large it was. We went down to street level and out for a walk, not the nicest district as bars with girls outside offering their wares which we walked through. Found a nice enough restaurant and ate there and wandered round a bit further before making our way home. We were tired, it had been a long day traveling.