Cinque Terre - Day 4

This morning was a bit of a struggle. I wasn’t as hungover as Tash had been the other day, but definitely felt heavy-headed and slow to get going. Still, we got ourselves up and moving—today’s plan was another walk, this time to Corniglia. Picked up some focaccia for breakfast (can’t go wrong with that here), then set off.

Not far in, we reached a checkpoint and for a moment thought we’d taken the wrong trail. But all was good, and we began the climb up to the high path. And up. And up. It was relentless - over two hours of steady uphill hiking. I found it pretty tough going. I was drenched in sweat within minutes, but one thing that helped was the peace and quiet. Hardly anyone else on the trail, just us and the mountains. The views, as ever, were spectacular - same sweeping coastline, same glittering sea, but it never gets boring to stop and look.

Eventually we reached the top, the highest point in the area at 600 metres. From there, the trail led us through forest paths, and we started to come across more people and even a few mountain bikers. The descent down to Corniglia was no walk in the park either - really hard on the knees and thighs, and we found out it was busier because the lower trail to Manarola was closed due to a landslide.

Corniglia itself was packed. Tourists everywhere, and not a whole lot to do as it’s perched high on the cliffs without beach access or to the sea. We found a spot to sit down and had some food and a drink in the shade we could find, which helped, but I still wasn’t feeling great. I’m pretty sure it wasn’t a hangover - felt more like heatstroke, or at least something close to it. I was flagging badly.

Tash was keen to walk on to Manarola, and normally I’d have been up for it, but the thought of climbing back up that path we’d just descended honestly made me want to cry. So instead we walked down what felt like a never-ending staircase to the train station.

Took the train back to Vernazza, stopped for an ice cream on the way through town, and then straight down to the beach for a dip in the sea. I was still overheating and not myself, so we went back to the apartment where I took a cold shower and crashed for a 90-minute nap. Absolute lifesaver.

In the evening, there was a restaurant right next to our apartment that we’d reserved a table for 7:00pm, and had a beautiful meal overlooking the bay. A lovely setting, decent fish, good wine, and I was feeling much more human again after the rest.

Afterwards, we wandered into town for the sunset and had a gentle stroll around the shops. No drinks tonight—we just headed back to the apartment and sat out on the veranda playing crib until about 10:30pm. An early night by our standards, but definitely needed.

Today was harder than expected. It was only a 3.5-hour walk, but the heat and that constant climbing took it out of me. Hoping for a bit more energy tomorrow.