Cinque Terre - Day 4

This morning was a bit of a struggle. I wasn’t as hungover as Tash had been the other day, but definitely felt heavy-headed and slow to get going. Still, we got ourselves up and moving—today’s plan was another walk, this time to Corniglia. Picked up some focaccia for breakfast (can’t go wrong with that here), then set off.

Not far in, we reached a checkpoint and for a moment thought we’d taken the wrong trail. But all was good, and we began the climb up to the high path. And up. And up. It was relentless - over two hours of steady uphill hiking. I found it pretty tough going. I was drenched in sweat within minutes, but one thing that helped was the peace and quiet. Hardly anyone else on the trail, just us and the mountains. The views, as ever, were spectacular - same sweeping coastline, same glittering sea, but it never gets boring to stop and look.

Eventually we reached the top, the highest point in the area at 600 metres. From there, the trail led us through forest paths, and we started to come across more people and even a few mountain bikers. The descent down to Corniglia was no walk in the park either - really hard on the knees and thighs, and we found out it was busier because the lower trail to Manarola was closed due to a landslide.

Corniglia itself was packed. Tourists everywhere, and not a whole lot to do as it’s perched high on the cliffs without beach access or to the sea. We found a spot to sit down and had some food and a drink in the shade we could find, which helped, but I still wasn’t feeling great. I’m pretty sure it wasn’t a hangover - felt more like heatstroke, or at least something close to it. I was flagging badly.

Tash was keen to walk on to Manarola, and normally I’d have been up for it, but the thought of climbing back up that path we’d just descended honestly made me want to cry. So instead we walked down what felt like a never-ending staircase to the train station.

Took the train back to Vernazza, stopped for an ice cream on the way through town, and then straight down to the beach for a dip in the sea. I was still overheating and not myself, so we went back to the apartment where I took a cold shower and crashed for a 90-minute nap. Absolute lifesaver.

In the evening, there was a restaurant right next to our apartment that we’d reserved a table for 7:00pm, and had a beautiful meal overlooking the bay. A lovely setting, decent fish, good wine, and I was feeling much more human again after the rest.

Afterwards, we wandered into town for the sunset and had a gentle stroll around the shops. No drinks tonight—we just headed back to the apartment and sat out on the veranda playing crib until about 10:30pm. An early night by our standards, but definitely needed.

Today was harder than expected. It was only a 3.5-hour walk, but the heat and that constant climbing took it out of me. Hoping for a bit more energy tomorrow.

Cinque Terre - Day 3

Slept really well last night, though we were both stirred around 5:00am by the sound of the trains rumbling through town. Managed to drift back off until 8:30am, which felt like a luxury. We had tea, coffee, and croissants out on the veranda, looking out over the rooftops of Vernazza. The view was brilliant and the morning sun already warm - such a great way to start the day.

At one point, a farmer trundled past us on what can only be described as a mini monorail—a proper little hillside contraption. Only in Italy.

We packed up our bits and set off intending to walk the coastal trail to Monterosso, only to discover it’s one-way during the mornings… in the opposite direction. So, plan B: back to the train station and hopped on a quick train there instead. It worked out just fine.

Monterosso was buzzing - a proper seaside resort feel with sunbeds and umbrellas lining the beach in neat rows. We strolled along the promenade, taking it all in, and eventually found a section of beach that us mere mortals could use without paying a small fortune. It was lovely just to lie back and do absolutely nothing for a bit.

The sun was fierce, so we dipped into the sea a few times. It was freezing. Not the kind of gentle ease-yourself-in kind of cold—the full “brace yourself and dive in” kind. But refreshing, and definitely needed.

Lunchtime came, and I grabbed a couple of focaccia from a nearby place. Delicious. Apparently focaccia is the thing to eat here, and I can see why. Will definitely be sampling a few more varieties while we’re around.

Typing this next bit mid-afternoon as we were getting ready to walk back to Vernazza. We were aiming to leave around 3:00pm for the 2–3 hour hike. Tried to find the high route but couldn’t, so ended up paying for the main coastal trail instead.

It was packed. Lots of people heading towards us, which on those narrow paths meant constantly stopping to let others pass. We got stuck behind a slow group for a bit, but eventually got ahead and found our stride. We definitely prefer the quieter high trails where it’s just us and the views - but this route still delivered. Challenging enough, and we made good time.

First thing we did on arrival? Beers. Sat by the quay and drank them in minutes - so we marched straight back up the hill for round two.

Back at the apartment, we showered and got ready for the evening. Cracked open another beer on the veranda, music playing, sun dipping - one of those perfect little moments. Later we headed into town again for food. I went for fish and chips, Tash had calamari and chips, and we sat with a beer watching the sun set into the sea. Bliss.

Afterwards, we stopped by a small bar I’d had my eye on all day, and it didn’t disappoint. Tash ordered a couple of cocktails made to her liking while we chatted to three Austrian women and then an Irish family. I must admit, I got a bit tipsy by the end - okay, more than a bit - but it was a great end to a full day.

We eventually wandered home and crashed straight into bed. Another long one in the legs. To be honest, I didn’t expect these hikes to be quite as tough as they’ve been. Makes me feel a little guilty I didn’t research them more thoroughly. 

But still—no regrets.

Cinque Terre - Day 2

We were awake early, though neither of us exactly sprang out of bed. Tash was nursing a hangover and I had a bit of a heavy head myself—not too bad, just enough to remind us of the night before. We packed up our things and checked out, then left our bags on the quay by the boat ticket office, fingers crossed they’d still be there later.

We popped into the supermarket to stock up on supplies before catching the boat. It turned up on time and the crossing to the next town took about 30 minutes. Unfortunately, the sway of the boat didn’t sit well with Tash’s hangover, and she ended up being sick—poor thing.

Once we arrived at Riomaggiore, we had a little wander around the town to get our bearings, then set off on the hiking trail. The start was brutal—very steep and pretty hard-going. We were both sweating like mad within minutes, me more so as per usual. A small church gave us a good excuse to pause, then we carried on. The trail evened out into more manageable ups and downs, and while still challenging, it wasn’t as punishing as that first climb.

I had a few comments on my Lord of the Rings t-shirt from fellow hikers, which was a nice little boost. We made regular stops for food, drink, and to take in the incredible views of the coastline—absolutely stunning. It took us around five hours in total. It was tough going, but rewarding, and the terrain reminded me a lot of other recent hikes we've done. Familiar, but still a test.

When we got back to Porto Venere, we were relieved to find our bags exactly where we’d left them. From there, we jumped straight onto the boat to Vernazza, where we’ll be staying for the next four nights. We met our host, Elena and found the place easily—tucked away from the main hustle of town, which suits us perfectly. Lovely little setting.

We settled in for a bit—Tash sunbathed and read, and I just flopped out and wasted a bit of time scrolling on my phone. Then we got ourselves ready for our 7:00pm dinner reservation. It was a close call - the restaurant looked closed at first, but thankfully they let us in. Turned out a reservation was essential. The food was great, but we didn’t get a prime spot to enjoy the sunset, which was a bit of a shame.

We did, however, meet a really friendly couple from Denmark and had a good chat with them between courses. After dinner, we headed down to the quay and grabbed a couple of drinks just in time to catch the sunset properly from there. Vernazza is a gorgeous place - we were both really happy with it.

We had a little explore around the town afterwards, soaking up the atmosphere, then grabbed a couple of beers to take back to the apartment. We ended the day sitting on our veranda, sipping our drinks and relaxing under the evening sky. Brilliant day. Absolutely shattered.

Cinque Terre - Day 1

We were up at 4:00am and out of the house by 4:30, heading to Heathrow in the dark. Thankfully, the car drop-off was smooth and security was no hassle at all. As usual, we managed to grab some breakfast before the flight—something comforting about that little ritual.

There was a slight delay taking off, but the pilot made up the time in the air and we landed pretty much on schedule. Tash had done her homework on how to get from the airport, which made things a lot easier. We took the Metro to Pisa train station, then managed to get tickets for the train to La Spezia. There was a moment of mild panic when our first train option was fully booked, but we sorted it in the end.

While waiting, we tucked into pizza and beer in a local place overlooking the road and traffic - and of course, posted about it on Facebook! The train journey to La Spezia was just over an hour. We were both so tired that we ended up dozing rather than admiring the Italian countryside, but the rest was much needed.

At La Spezia, we got our bus tickets to Porto Venere. There was a bit of confusion about which stop we needed, but it all worked out. Porto Venere itself was absolutely beautiful. We found our accommodation easily enough, and our host Fabio—a lovely old man—was very welcoming. We saw him a few times wandering about the village, always with a smile.

After getting ourselves sorted, we headed out for a wander. The village was bustling with tourists at first, but then the coaches left and it felt like the place emptied in minutes. We explored the winding paths and found the little church perched on the cliffs, with stunning views over the sea—just breath-taking.

Back in town, we stopped at a local bar for a couple of beers, soaking up the relaxed atmosphere. Then we found the restaurant that Fabio had recommended. It was completely empty when we arrived, and still empty when we left—but the food was excellent. Stuffed mussels to start, which were really good, followed by tuna that was even better. A lovely bottle of wine completed the meal, and we were both really happy with our choice.

We finished the evening with a few more drinks at another bar before heading to bed. It’s been a great first day—so good to be here, and even nicer to be just the two of us. We really do enjoy our own company.