Woke up feeling fresh and so much better than the past few days. Had coffee and biscuits on the veranda, soaking in the view over the bay. Peaceful and calm - just the two of us and that little hum of morning life below.
Headed to Pirate Café for breakfast, which lived up to its reputation. It’s recommended all over the internet so, unsurprisingly, it was packed, but the food was delicious and definitely worth the wait.
Afterwards, we had a little wander around Vernazza. It’s a small town, so there’s only so far you can go before you loop back to where you started. But the little back alleys are fun to explore - tight lanes with laundry overhead, random doorways, hidden corners… you know the type.
Back in the main square, Tash finally gave in to temptation and tried on a few dresses we’d walked past all week. She ended up treating herself to one and looked great in it. We then went down to the beach for a short rest after sorting our train tickets for later. Spent about 45 minutes relaxing and people-watching before heading back up to shower and get ready.
Then came a bit of drama at the train station - Tash realised she couldn’t find her phone and immediately assumed it had been stolen. Panic mode set in. We checked Find My Phone and saw it pinging at the apartment, so I legged it back through town as fast as we could. Thankfully, it was just sat there on the side where she’d left it. Heart rate finally returned to normal!
Caught the train to Manarola - just nine minutes down the line, though a quick €20 gone. We wandered through the town and made our way up to Nessun Dorma, the restaurant perched above the bay. We’d booked onto a pesto-making class and when we arrived, we were handed aprons and led to our table… along with about 60 others! The whole place had been turned into one big terrace classroom.
The class was brilliant - hands-on, informal, lots of laughs - and the pesto we made was genuinely delicious. The setting, the sun, the views, the atmosphere… it all came together. Coincidentally, the American couple from Marco’s bar the other night were sat behind us, and she kept popping over for a chat and photos. She was loving it too.
Afterwards, we were served a selection of antipasti and a carafe of wine. Music kicked in, there was some spontaneous dancing and general partying - such a great vibe. The two hours flew by.
Afterwards, we wandered around the corner and found a quiet spot near the water’s edge. I sat and caught up on my diary while Tash swam, then sunbathed to dry off. It was a real pinch-yourself kind of moment relaxing with the locals as no one else would think to go around the coastal path that far.
Later in the afternoon we set off for Riomaggiore, walking the high pass. It was only meant to be an hour, but more than half of that was uphill. As usual, sweat pouring off me, but the views from up there were something else again.
We arrived in Riomaggiore and walked around for a bit. Tash couldn’t even remember the town from earlier in the holiday - back when we first passed through on our 5 hour hike and she was deep in hangover territory! We made our way to the water again, then stopped in a bar for a quick drink before grabbing a takeaway pizza and a bottle of Prosecco.
We clambered over the rocks in the harbour to find a spot in the full sun for the sunset. Found a good ledge to balance our plastic glasses and bottle and sat back to enjoy the evening. As the sun started to drop, more and more people arrived with the same idea - although most were just carrying bottles of beer. We easily could’ve cracked open a second bottle but, for once, decided to show a bit of restraint.
The sunset was beautiful. When it was over, we made our way to the station and saw we had a 25-minute wait, so grabbed a beer at a little café nearby. We risked not buying tickets for the return - figured there wouldn’t be a conductor doing rounds on a Sunday night train at 9:30pm. We were right. €20 saved!
Back at the apartment, we finished off the last of the beers we’d bought earlier in the trip and played cards on the veranda.
Honestly, a really fantastic day - one of the best. Full of variety, laughs, little dramas, great food, new faces, and postcard-perfect views. Very memorable.