Monday, February 19, 2024

Monday 19th Zanzibar Day 1

Woke up before the alarm and got up slowly and quick shower, final stretching of the bag to get all our stuff into them. Keep thinking the zipper is going to beak any time soon. So far so good though.

Very quick breakfast and then into the people carrier to the airport which was nice and comfy after rattling around in the land cruiser for the last 4 days!

Tasha had also managed to sort out a taxi from Zanzibar airport to the hotel which seemed reasonable and efficient too. Fingers crossed.

Okay, so Arusha Airport was an experience, a good one I hasten to add. It’s tiny, the checkin lounge was under a tent and everything was very basic, very amusing. Certainly explained why we were unable to check in online yesterday and this morning!! Went through no problem and the departure lounge was under corrugated iron roofing.

Sat looking through the PhotoCircle photos that people had uploaded and got mine ready to upload when I get a decent internet connection. I’m quite pleased with the ones I’ve got to share and I hope the guys in the group like them too. As usual I’ve loads to upload!!

We sat and waited a while as fellow travellers filtered through and then we were called 30mins early and took off at 9.00am instead of 9.20am. Result!

Now to relax for an hour or so listening to music.

Journey was fine. Loved listening to my tunes, back to what I know!! The flight was less than an hour and getting through security was as you might expect..very easy. Our driver was waiting and we loaded the car and settled down for a 90mins drive.

First impressions are that it’s more “built up” than Arusha. The roads are better quality as are the buildings, it just feels like the standard of living is better here. Mind you we’ve only been in the car 45mins. It does look a nice place.

In my mind, for whatever reason, I imagine spices and Istanbul type country and buildings and life. It’s just the name, Zanzibar, to me sounds so exotic. We’ll see soon enough won’t we? They want tipping more at the minute, could be an issue, we’ve no cash other than to pay this taxi exactly the amount I drew out yesterday, that was fortunate!!

Even the street stalls and markets look better quality.

Sunday, February 18, 2024

Sunday 18th. Safari day 4

Woken up by the alarm at 7.00am, not the best sleep as I think the beef curry didn’t 100% agree with me last night. Got ready and had a nice breakfast and then we’re off again at 8.30am for our last day. We’re going back to descend into the crater which should be good.

I’ve opted not to sit at the back of the cruiser today!!

We drove back through Karatu which had market day setting up and was busy with so many motorcycles and tuk tuks zipping around carrying passengers. Will have to look it up in google maps street view to show people and remember myself.

90mins to get to the crater and a bit of a wait to get in, stretched our legs and got congratulated for climbing Kili

Lion walking amongst the cruisers using them for shade. I could have reached out and touched it! Then another walked by us and there were four in total!

And then really heart in mouth excitement as we watched a zebra come away from the pack and a female stalk it. Complete silence as we watched and waited, gripping. Then the lion was on the run but what anyone hadn’t noticed is that she was hunting a warthog instead. A brief chase and then pumba was safe.

And the zebra realising its perilous position made its escape too in a very circuitous route back to the herd!! That was good.

Onwards and we went to the lake where there were flocks of flamingos and then a bit further on we saw a mother and baby hippo swimming to rejoin a load of others.

We then made it to the picnic area which was lovely. We did see a rhino from a very long distance. Enjoyed the picnic, we were warned of eagles swooping down for food and stayed in the cruiser but Peter sat outside so I thought “why not!” and that was good. Loads of birds visiting me but none brave enough to swipe my food.

Leaving there we started our way back and then spend 10-15mins working out how to get through a really tricky bit of road that was deeply mud. But he worked it out in the end having watched a couple of young lads get through in different ways.

Carried on for a bit and saw other things including a group of warthogs and larger gazelle and water buffalo. Getting nearer the end we came across another watering hole that clearly is used by the elephants as we counted at least 12 and there was also a rhino in the distance although clearer this time so we were happy.

One last bit of excitement was waiting and watching a Land Cruiser being towed out of mud it had got stuck in! Didn’t take too long and then we were able to pass it on a safer footing.

And that was it. We made our way to the ascent route and by now I was really struggling to stay awake and nodded off for most of the route back to the main gate. A bit disappointed by that because it was the last part of the safari and I slept through it, I can sleep any time!! But I wouldn’t have seen any more than I’d already seen, it’s just the principle, but I couldn’t keep my eyes open for trying.

So we’re on our way home now, stopped in Karatu again and this time I got some money out and we now have about 130km drive back to Arusha and get our bags from the Mount Meru hotel and then get dropped off at the new one for tonight. Hopefully that’ll be okay. But it’s an early leave in the morning.

The safari has been excellent, I mentioned comparison with Kenya and Tash reminded me or the tree tops hotel, the lake and boat trip etc but the quantity of animals here topped Kenya so we’ve had the best of both worlds with our two safaris!! How lucky are we??

Now to get flights to Zanzibar and relax and eat and drink as much as possible before returning to the sad reality of normal life.

Taking ages to get back. T5. Kisongo was a busy place at 6.30pm. 13km to Arusha. Everyone is tired. No sure what we’re doing about dinner!

We arrived back at Mount Meru hotel to collect our bags and had a slight concern when he couldn’t find mine but averted when I got involved, there was a lot all over the place.

Then on to our Njiro Legacy hotel that felt like in the middle of nowhere and a rough part because of the turn into the road it was on and it was all dark and we tooted at the gate and it was behind a gated area and was perfectly fine.

Said our thankyous and goodbyes to Peter, who’s been great.

Chucked our bags into our rooms and straight down the bar area for a few drinks and a pizza each. That took an age to appear and the girls took the opportunity to get cleaned up. We stayed and had a few beers and cleaned our their supply of 660ml beers!! The fridge and electric kept turning off which made it all authentic.

Decided to go to bed and get our bags sorted for the flight tomorrow. Another long but brilliant day.

I have really enjoyed the safaris, now for some proper R&R in Zanzibar

Saturday, February 17, 2024

Saturday 17th. Safari day 3

Didn’t get our wake up call so bit of a rush to get ready and out for 7.00am breakfast. Nice selection and got our packed lunches and then on our way by 7.45am.

Throughput the night we heard various animals including Jackals and Hyenas, and all joking aside, twice I woke up genuinely wondering that the animal was but it was Tasha snoring!!

Set out and soon got the roof opened and made our way to a petrol station in the middle of the Serengeti!!

In the way we saw 5 hot air balloons which looked impressive and will the bright sunshine they made for some good photos.

Today we’re searching for the leopard, Peter said there was one spotted (ha ha!) yesterday but it was too far to travel as we’d have been getting back in darkness. So let’s see.

We are heading back to the crater today so another long day in the Land Cruiser ahead. Which I don’t mind. I’m loving this.

Stopped at a busy section and there was a lion just relaxing in a tree at least 100m away, how anyone saw that is anyone’s guess, very sharp eyes to spot it. Unless it’s a common place for that particular lion. Looked great and got good photos.

We continued on our way and then paused by another keep and they’d found a leopard in a tree almost the same as the lion. This time it was a lot harder to see and was more of a silhouette but as it moved you could zoom in with my camera and make out its spotted leg. A long way away but we can say we saw it. Hopefully find one that’s closer and clearer as we continue, it’s only 9.10am!!

Wee stop for everyone in the middle of the road and could hear things in the grass.

Wildebeest cantering along at distance and then crossed the road right in front of us to rejoin a few others higher in the hill

CB radio crackling with voices and static as the guides all communicated with each other providing updates and information on sightings. Or stopping passing vehicles to exchange information too.

And onwards we continued.

Standing up as much as possible to challenge myself and view things and taking it all in. Hard on the bumpy and uneven tracks. But great fun. Aching!!

I keep reminding myself that I am in the Serengeti on safari and how to explain this when we get home. It’s dreamlike but real at the same time. I’m actually here!!

Bit of excitement a few times but false alarms. It’s now 11.25am and it’s been a less fruitful day. No complaints though.

Outcrops of rock dotted here and there making for dramatic views.

Pride rock. Few lions and then thousands of zebra all grazing and then even better was a male and female lion just laying there watching them. Utterly mesmerizing!!

On we went back towards the main gate for our picnic but then saw a hyena on its own which I was pleased about. No photo but binoculars made it a clear view. Just driving along you see lions sat there panting away and gazelle quite close by keeping a wary eye on them.

Back to Nani gate/rock for picnic again and a quick ascent to a lovely viewpoint of the plains in all directions. Then back in the cruiser to make our way back to the crater. The roof was down now so I’m guessing Peter means businesse!

Straight away we saw a massive group of zebras, tens of thousands

More lions and then 8 hyenas lounging in a watering hole. That was good. They’re weird creatures and how the Lion King seemed to sum them up properly

Peter then put his foot down and we sped through the remaining miles. Must admit the tiredness hit me and I snoozed a lot. We did another viewing of the crater and then soon we were at the main gate and looking for our accommodation.

Looking forward to that because I am absolutely filthy dirty, Tasha just took a photo and I look like I’ve been down a coal mine. Must admit I thought the lodge was closer but it’s another 45mins drive.

A 45min drive well spent, we’ve arrived and it’s beautiful. An absolute paradise over looking a mountain range and is obviously some sort of spa retreat. Had a beer by the pool and relaxed. No pressure or hurry to do anything. Really nice to just read a book or update this diary and do nothing with time on our hands. It’s often felt a bit rushed to do things and it’s nice to have time this evening.

Made our way back to our accommodations and got ready and then back to the main lounge area for drinks and then dinner which was a buffet and was fine.

Couple more drinks relaxing and chatting and watching Man City v Chelsea and then to bed around 10.00pm

A really good and enjoyable day and night. Later start tomorrow as breakfast is for 8.00an.

Friday, February 16, 2024

Friday 16th. Safari day 2

Breakfast and packed lunch

Ngorongoro National park on way to Serengeti

Don’t pronounce the N. It’s the sound the cattle bells made that the Masai tribe looked after and we’re moved on.

Driving along a tight dirt track we passed a couple of jeeps broken down on the side or in ditches

Stopped at a viewpoint of the crater…OMFG…absolutely stunning view. 16km wide. Lush grassland and rhinos and elephants grazing. Looked amazing.

We continued along the road and Peter pulled over and picked someone up with a head gasket and other items as another CK vehicle had broken down!!

It is better to light a candle than to curse the darkness. Burial stone

Got around the top of the crater and turned a corner and then the Serengeti Plains just stretched out as far as the eye could see. Arcadia trees with their distinctive umbrella shape clumped together made it magical.

Masai village dotted around.

Sometimes it looked like the Yorkshire Dales the roads and the greenery. Quite funny really

Giraffes at the roadside. Zebra in background loads. Made a great spot. Busy with jeeps

Dust kicked up by the Land Cruisers and jeeps made it all the more dramatic. I kept my window open for thought. Couldn’t see many times.

Masai by roadside selling bottles of honey made in the mountain side.

Along the plains we saw thousands of wildebeests grazing in readiness for their migration. Spectacular sight

Mingling with them were zebra and Thompson Gazelle. So cool to see all this.

The shepherds and goat herders young and old all carry a thin stick. So cliched with their blankets draped over their shoulders but they all do it. Very “same” look

Road is a nightmare. So bumpy and dusty. About 100km on it!! 🤣🤣

100s and 100s of storks circling overhead

We reached a boundary between the two parks after 100km and stopped for photos and then proceeded into the Serengeti National park. I thoughts we’d been in it already!!

Zebra lean on each other for shade.

A bit further along we came across three lions just chilling near the roadside. We were so close, incredible. Overhead here vultures circling. Got some incredible close up photos.

So odd seeing them up close and personal like this and so close to all the zebras not more than 50m away.

Saw a male lion under a bridge in the shade

More giraffe and we made it to the gate for lunch.

Set out again and then the whole plain was stretching out in every direction literally as far as the eye could see. A tree here and there with vultures sat in it. Two more lions.

But just deep green grassland which became less green as we moved away from water. And the dust trails of land cruisers. I absolutely loved it.

More travel around. Hippos and crocodile ostriches and loads more.

We could see rain was coming in and Peter showed no sign of let up and kept going down these winding trails until around 6.00pm we came into sight of the tent camp and that’s exactly what it was. At first glance it looked very rustic but it was much nicer.

We had an intro and then went to our tents and had to have a bucket of hot water connected so as to have a shower. That was amusing but it worked and we were cleaned up in two buckets after having to shout “more water please!”

Big proper bed and some electric lights but anything to charge there was a point at the main area so used that overnight.

Off to dinner and Peter joined us, food was great and filling and by 8.00pm we’d all had enough and went to bed. Had internet out here so wasted time on social media instead of my diary which I regret.

Really, really enjoyed today. Great fun all round.

Thursday, February 15, 2024

Words and things to remember

Sour sour. Ok

Jambo. Hello

Pole Pole. Slowly

Simba. Lion

Hakuna matata. No worries

Bora Bora. Motorbike

Karibu. Welcome

Asante. Thank you.

Asante sana. Thank you very much.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Ck. oi oi

Oi oi. Ck

Non stop. To the top

To the top. Non stop

More water. For the fire

For the fire. More water

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Cultivation zone

Rain Forest zone

Moorland zine

Alpine desert

Summit

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Colobus monkey


Thursday 15th. Safari day 1

Breakfast nice and early and exchanged numbers with James and Phil and made our way to reception where we experienced a bit of pick up confusion with driver Peter. His information was only John x2 so that’s all he was expecting and had prepared for. Once that was sorted we were good to go and to my joy we had been assigned a huge great Toyota Land Cruiser with pop top and everything. Absolutely perfect. Although it became clear very shortly that for the safaris this was the transport of choice. Still, I didn’t expect one so was delighted by it!

Driving along once outside of Arusha was fantastic, the plains and grassland and the familiar shaped trees surrounding us as a convoy of safari jeeps made their way out to the National Parks. Sun shine down and the feeling of no rules on the road. Colourful and garish minibuses going past us.

The river beds had dried out and the further we travelled the more “African” it felt. Goat and cattle herders (quite often in national dress) walking along beside the road or further inland.

100% what you imagine Africa to be like. Loved it.

Tarangire park

Zebra, water buffalo, gazelle,

Rift valley. Kinosi. Kicongo? Mosquito river. T7 road

Bustling and busy at 3.45pm. Kids all leaving school. Walking along the dusty road with no obvious destination

Mto Wa Mbu busy town. Almost prosperous. Women sat at roadside selling bananas. But the shops and bars were nicer. Still really run down and ramshackle. Very, very green.

Rice plantations. Bananas.

Sheer rock face ahead of us. Overlooking a huge lake as we drove up the side of the hill.

What’s the Tanzanite experience? Mining. But which type?

Karatu town

Red mud everywhere. So dirty and where it’s wet must be so hard to deal with. Corrugated iron buildings or brick.

Wednesday, February 14, 2024

Facebook entry for summit night.

A very quick update. WE ALL DID IT!! We conquered Mount Kilimanjaro!!

A much longer update if you want details of our summit night experience are below:

I’ll post about the other days leading up to summit night later in our break when I have more time and energy!

So, after 5 days of trekking and wild camping; we were woken up from our tents at midnight, had porridge & coffee and then set off around 1.00am in the pitch darkness with only our head torches to light the way. If you looked up the mountain you saw groups of lights snaking their way up and with a cloudless sky if you looked the other way you saw millions of stars! It was like a BBC wildlife documentary! However, most of the time you only saw the boots of the person trudging ahead of you!!

Cloudless sky and an altitude that is FIVE times the height of Snowden meant minus degrees temperature and the tubes to our camelback water container all froze so we couldn’t drink

It was, honestly, absolutely brutal!!

The guides were singing African tribal songs to keep our spirits up and after 5.5hrs, the sun started rising and the views from the side of the mountain were breathtaking. But we still had 2 more hours to go. If I heard “One more push guys, it’s just around the corner” again I’d have thrown that guide off the mountain…if I’d had any energy left. We had a guide each assigned to us on this night in case of complications.

We reached Stella Point which is a mini-summit but still had 45mins to walk through the snow and glacial range to the peak. Fatigue and sickness was hitting everyone but we all made it in the end albeit at different times.

Fantastic feeling and hard to digest that we’d actually done it.

Once the photos, congratulations & emotions had passed we had to descend a different way to the ascent and that was mental. Sand, stones, gravel, choking and blinding dust with no discernible path, we just had to “get down” by slipping and sliding for 4hrs. Back to base camp and all the Climbing Kilimanjaro team members (porters, chefs, toilet duty guys, etc) were hugging and congratulating us all. They seemed genuinely as pleased that we’d done it as we were.

1.5hr sleep and another 4hrs difficult descent through a lunar landscape and a dried out stream bed to our night camp in the pouring rain.

The remaining teammates came back in through the night around 9.00pm. Everyone was exhausted and couldn’t really process what we’d achieved. That will come in a few days time when we can view photos & videos and reflect on it all.

I’m writing this on the following day on the 3hr bus ride back to the hotel, following another grueling 4hr hike down through the rain forest, where we’re looking forward to our first shower in a week, we’ve only had x2 washing up bowls of hot water twice a day for “washy washy”..

It has been a truly amazing experience.More to follow…

Kilimanjaro trip. Wednesday Day 7 descent. 14th

The best nights sleep I’ve had during this expedition!! Flat out and didn’t wake until woken by the coffee man. Tash less so, said she was stressing over John (and Pauline).

We were advised they were both in camp so we got sorted a bit slap dash as we knew we didn’t need to save clothes for the following day and we’re in our way home!!

We were all sorted before breakfast and made our way to the Mess tent to catch up with everyone and have our last breakfast together.

Then we sorted each other out, swung on our back packs and set out on our way. It was about 10km and they said would be 4 hrs and John and Pauline only needed to get to the rangers lodge and then there was a road and the could travel down in a jeep. Only problem was, as we found out, this wasn’t close by and was still a tough 3hrs for everyone to get down from the camp.

It was a long walk and we chatted with the guys and it was interesting getting back into the rain forest zone and the views of the mountain were good. Lots of people passing us going both up and down. I was glad I was on the downward journey!!

We got to the jeep point but the others didn’t catch us up even thought we waited ages so we carried on. Finally making it to the last gate to signify that we’d completed the expedition, was a great feeling.

Took photos of course and celebrated with everyone that came through. Bit sad that it was over.

Sunday, February 11, 2024

Kilimanjaro Climb - Day 4

A lie-in this morning meant we weren't woken until 6.30am as it's a shorter day today. We are taking on the Barranca Wall. So after a wash it was breakfast and packing up for the day ahead. Everyone seems to be sleeping better except for Dan, he's still struggling a bit and he was again later in the day. He's a big chap with a bigger appetite so you know things are not right when he doesn't eat much!

I felt a bit dizzy a couple of times getting in and out of the tent or walking up to the toilet, you forget you're at an altitude you're not familiar with and any movement at "normal" speed does take it out of you. Strange sensation to experience. With breakfast done we were G2G (Good to Go) and we set out at a slow pace towards the wall. 

We could see from a distance what was ahead of us as there was a long, snaking trail of people in brightly coloured hiking gear!

There was a lot of 'traffic' and people trying to get ahead of the queues, it was once of the few times that we didn't give way to the porters trying to get past - else we would not have moved for hours, it was also one of the few times we witnessed our guides getting a bit heated with others. So the wall required us to scramble up and down quite a small trail against the rock face. There was a drop to the side, so there was an element of danger that made it all the more exciting and enjoyable. (I love challenges like that!). We all managed well and it was an hour or so and then we were scrambling over less challenging rocks. 

It was here that Nicole got me to Bluetooth my phone to her speaker, this was a mistake! I played my Choons playlist which was quite loud to be fair and it was enjoyable until a couple of foreign hikers went past. One commented, "that's not very in with nature!" and the other called me "selfish" - I responded diplomatically by telling them both to "Fuck Off and walk faster" if they didn't want to listen to it. I wasn't too proud of that because it showed a side to me that no-one knew existed..and shortly after I turned the music down and eventually off so as to not upset anyone else.

We then stopped for a snack break and we saw a 79 year old woman supported by 3 guys come slowly hiking into view, she was clapped by the people already there and encouraged, some spoke to her - from Texas - well done her, very inspirational woman.

We then started our trek to the next camp as this was our highest point today, it was pretty barren landscape which we trekked through and not a lot to photograph really. A lot of the descent was loose shingle so you slipped a lot which was all a bit dramatic.

We came into sight of the camp and were told it was still an hour away, as we continued on it became apparent why - we had a valley between us!

So down we went which was slow going and then once at the bottom it was back up the other side, and as usual our porters came down to help with bags where needed and sure enough an hour later we finally arrived in the camp.

We all signed in and had our photos at the sign as usual, Dan was some way behind but we all stayed and when he caught up we re-took the team photo with him in it. That was important and showed a good team spirit that has occurred with this group of people. We dumped our bags in our tents and went to the Mess tent for a drink, lunch and a catch up.

We were told the plan for later today and went and crashed out for an hour or so in nice warm tents. The view from this camp was incredible. Warm water arrived about 4.30pm and we had our usual awkward wash hunched over the bowls and using wet wipes, I even managed to have a shave today - sat out on a rock, a mirror perched on another rock overlooking the clouds and landscape - the most impressive location for a shave I've ever had! Once sorted we went up the slope a little as all the porters and guides were waiting for us to do introductions.

As more of us got there they started singing and dancing an it was great fun, if a little surreal but it was also "expected" in a way as it's what they do. You had to get involved and we had a dance and all that. Chediel did a speech and introduced each and every team member, cooks, waiters, toilet guys, porters and guides. We then had to introduce ourselves and say something and it all got a bit emotional with people saying thank yous. Elizabeth, Pauline and Tash all shed a tear and then we all mingled and hugged and shook hands or bumped fists etc and then just like that, it was all over. Although I suspect we will go through the whole thing again on the last day..which is sadly very close now.

So after that we went to the Mess tent for dinner but kept coming outside because the views were spectacular when the clouds parted (or disappeared) and the sun lit up Kili in the background. We didn't have dinner right away and us, Pauline, John and Moya played Uno whilst the others played a dice game that got them very involved.

Dinner came, rice again fried bread so I was happy with that and we then finished our games and said our good nights - another 6.30am lie-in tomorrow so that's nice.

We had our routine checks all was good and tomorrow's itinerary explained. We go 4hrs to base camp tomorrow and then at midnight we set off for the summit. Looking at it and seeing the signs saying it's 11hours away makes it feel so close. I really hope we do it, I am starting to feel mildly positive which is not complacency at all as I think the steep ascent is going to be brutal and take its toll on all of us.

We shall soon see!! 


Saturday, February 10, 2024

Kilimanjaro Climb - Day 3

 A "better" night's sleep I guess last night, woke up a number of times either too hot, too cold or unable to breathe comfortably..that one wasn't much fun at all, my breathing was really shallow, quick breathes and very difficult - managed not to panic but it was a close call not to.. anyway, got some hours though.

Woken up at 5.45am as agreed with coffee and hot water bowls and we sorted our bags out. We were much better organised and sorted but it was a bloody cold morning, ice was on the outside of our tent, I even added the bottom leggings to my zip off shorts. It's become a bit of a joke that I am the only one around wearing shorts all the time, both in our group and others that pass us! Even the porters are commenting on it..as Tash said, years of playing football in the cold means I am more used to it than most.

Anyway, we were greeted with the sad, but not really unexpected, news that Lynn & Denise were going to call it a day and return back to the hotel. They had struggled yesterday as I mentioned, they have not slept properly in about 5 days because of their travelling in from the US, they hadn't enjoyed the camping experience but then many of us will have struggled with that too. Still, it's such a shame as you want as many people as possible make a successful trip of it. They can still be rightly proud of even attempting it and yesterday was pretty brutal, I too was at a low ebb. (Thankfully, less so today)

So we had a last photo with them as a group and shared well wishes and hugs and goodbyes and Naomi took them back to the pick up point (that's her trip over now too) and we then went and got ready to get on the move for the day.

After breakfast, we set our from the camp quite wrapped up but very soon the sun cleared the mountain and within 15 minutes we'd stopped to shed layers (including my zip off leggings - back to shorts!). I needed to keep adding factor 30 to my face, neck and arms as everything was bright red from yesterday's sun - they looked very sore but weren't thank goodness. But that definitely led to my feeling that I was ill yesterday with heat stroke of sorts.

Where I just said "the sun cleared the mountain", that mountain was Kili! It's snow-covered in areas and with the sun glinting off it, it looked great. I don't "think" we were looking at the actual summit, I think it's like Helvelyn in that you think it's there but it's slightly further along and not visible from lower down..of course, I could be talking bollocks!

So, we climbed in warm sunshine at a very slow and steady pace today. I do like the pace we're maintaining and you don't feel under pressure from your team-mates around you; no one is trying to push ahead and we have regular stops too.

We continued along and it soon became apparent across the way that there were loads of people walking along a different route but going to the same camp that we were.

We stopped at one point and it was explained we had moved from the Moorlands Zone into the Alpine Zone, and we continued trudging along and eventually made it to the Lava Tower camp at 4,600m. We stopped for our usual photos and then found some shelter (hidden between rocks basically) to eat the snacks we'd been provided with. During this 20mins break we noticed it started to hail, very small and light hail but a big difference to the sunshine we had experienced.

A couple of things of note:

Today's hike was an acclimatisation hike to 4,600m, which is 200m higher than Mount Kinabalu. Phil was great, he had his altimeter watch and told me when we'd reached that milestone. I have to admit I was very nervous about it today because of how I felt in Borneo. The clear and obvious difference being the pace of the ascent, it was so much quicker in Borneo but here it's great that it's so steady. The massive positive for me was I felt perfectly normal, no sign of any sickness or anything, especially how shit I felt yesterday.

Which brings me onto my second point, a number of people struggled at one point or another, it was tough going but the whole point of the hike really. Dan seemed worst hit, much more subdued and just not himself. He (and the others) didn't make any fuss about it but he was clearly not good. I think he has sun-stroke too as it's the brightest red.

Phil struggled on with his knee, he needs an op and when we got to the camp he was really nauseous. John fell down and hurt his leg too as we were coming down a steep section after our lunch break, fingers crossed he's able to continue tomorrow - I suspect a good night's sleep will help. Only problem is that we don't get a good night's sleep here!

And Pauline struggled with the descent (that John fell on) which I'll come to as many others did. I'd noticed before that Pauline struggles with balance on tricky terrain sometimes but the guides were great and helped her every step of the way of course.

So, the descent to Baranco Camp! 

The sleet/hail was coming down and we all had waterproofs on, but luckily it light, partly because we were travelling through cloud s it wasn't "rain-forest" rain. The first part was through a very steep,  narrow gap through the rocks, it was really impressive scenery and I enjoyed going through that. The rest of the hike was a constant downhill trudge and you couldn't see much further than 50 yards. Chatted more with people as I felt better in myself (compared to yesterday) - James from Thame and Nicole (+ Chris) the nurse.

Not a lot to talk about regarding this stage to be honest, some good opportunities for photos and videos and I will need to get people's details so I can share them on Dropbox or something. We were walking down into the valley and eventually the camp came into sight. 

The cloud cover turns so quickly, one minute it's clear and 45 seconds later you can't see a thing. As we got closer the porters greeted us and took more rucksacks today and we made it to our destination, signed in and had photos and then directed to our tents. This was about 3.00pm and straight to the Mess tent for cooked lunch but everyone just wanted to sleep. The problem was it was soon 4.10pm and Chediel said "sleep now and waster will come at 5.00pm"..."Say WHAT?". We convinced him to give us 90 minutes and I fell fast asleep for an hour and then washed and it was time for tea.

Nicole dragged us out of our tents because the view of Kili was magnificent and cloud cover was coming in fast. Took some more photos around camp, it's a big one here and then into the Mess tent, but it's cold today and even I needed leggings on.

Food was good again (spag bol) and we had our briefing from Chediel and a discussion about summit night because we were offered different times to get up but after we'd agreed a time it was explained (badly) we'd have to bring it forward a day. Two major issues with that, it would mean a massive hike tomorrow and the loss of an acclimatisation day but more importantly, Chris's 40th birthday falls on the 14th and we would have summitted on the 13th which takes away from the significance of summitting on his actual birthday. Chediel immediately back-tracked and changed the plans back to the original ones so we that we could summit on his birthday - an absolute no brainer to be honest. Shouldn't have even been a discussion!

Spirits were quite high over dinner today again even with the kamikaze moth in the tent! With all that done and dusted our heart-rate and bloods tested we made our way to bed. We get a lie-in tomorrow with a 6.30am wake up call as we're only hiking 4 hours - we have a games day tomorrow to look forward to. Came here into the tent/bed and it's taken me 75 minutes to write today's diary entry. 

A really good day, personally I am so relieved how good I feel - phew! 

Friday, February 09, 2024

Kilimanjaro Climb - Day 2

I wouldn't claim to have had the best night's sleep! Lost one of the ear plugs around 1.30am so had to put up with tents unzipping constantly and people snoring. Eventually located it and had fitful sleep but managed to not need to go out for a wee so that was a bonus! Tash used the "she-wee" which I guess went okay as there wasn't piss all over the mattress/bedding.. :-) 

5.30am we heard people milling about and getting there tea/coffee wake-up call, as did we and then a bowl each of hot water to freshen up "washy, washy!" - why is everything said twice? Why is everything said.. yeah right!! 

Sorted our damp clothes and our duffel bags for almost an hour, all a bit of hard work to be honest, and then over to the Mess tent for breakfast. Everyone was the same as us and hadn't slept particularly well, hardly surprising. Lynn hasn't even camped before..God knows what she made of it, we're finding it hard work, that must be hell of a shock to the system.

Breakfast was good, porridge, pancakes, toast, sausage & eggs - they're certainly very capable chefs!

After that we got sorted for the hike, the tents were already packed away ready for the porters to start their own treks to the next camp. 

We did stretches and warm-up exercises and then set off on our way for the next hike. Today we had Razak leading us, and again, we set off at a slow pace (even on level ground!). We continued our walk through the rain forest up and down, mostly down and again stopping many times to let the porters pass us.

At one point, which we stopped for an explanation, we passed from the Rain Forest Zone into the Moorland Zone, the obvious difference being the bushes and trees were a lot shorter. 

After a midway stop we then had this monster climb, it just went on and on, it was very challenging, the sun a beating down and I was sweating buckets! I decided I needed help so I played my music, chuffed to be able to say that I've played JoolsD Choons on Mount Kilimanjaro!

After we summited this bloody great hill it levelled out and we were then walking across the moorlands that were flat and open, and as Phil commented it was very much like the moors in England - you could have been in Devon or the Lake District. The pace picked up and I kept my tunes on until we reached Shira 1 camp where our Mess tent was erected and we had lunch. This was about 5 hours since we'd left first thing this morning.

I must admit that I was starting to feel funny, headache, stomach ache, cramps - I didn't say anything and ate minimal amount of food saying I wasn't hungry. But more importantly I didn't want to let on in case that went against me - I knew I could just work through it, I wasn't getting kicked off the mountain! We broke camp and continued on our way and slowly I started falling back as I couldn't keep the pace and felt so very rough. It suited me walking on my own, I really didn't feel up for conversation or anything and just plodded along.

I wasn't the only one and the group did spread out today, the pace was a little quicker but that was to be expected as the second part was quite level ground. Lynn and Denise were feeling it too and quite often we'd stop but they still hadn't caught up with us by the time we'd set off again. I noticed that Chediel was carrying one of their rucksacks. They were both very quiet at dinner this evening, I hope they're both okay and still enjoying the experience.

Eventually, Shira 2 camp came into view but then it disappeared over the horizon and into the clouds and just when we thought we were there it was still another 20 minutes up another slope!

Some of the porters came down to assist and take rucksacks from us, Tash jumped at the opportunity and we were finally in the camp. A few photos (& registration) later and over to our tents and Tash was having her boots cleaned and then we were in our tent getting cleaned up and sorted. It was a stark contrast to last night, mainly because we weren't wet, as always, that makes hell of a difference; but we were just better clued up with what we needed to sort out for this evening and tomorrow morning. I still felt shit and wasn't looking forward to dinner. Went to the Mess tent almost last and chatted and joked with everyone. It's a lovely group of people which is obviously a bonus and makes this an enjoyable experience.

Again, the chefs made a great dinner of noodle soup, chicken stew with rice and fruit. I ate sparingly. We had our oxygen and heart rate recorded again (92, 65) and a briefing for tomorrow. We get a 15 minute lay in this time, so a 5.45am alarm call and we will be testing ourselves at 5,000 metres, we will then walk down to another camp for the evening at 3,900 metres. The whole idea is our first acclimatisation ascent. I must admit that I am a bit worried after today and also Borneo at 4,300m. But I'm here now so there's not much I can do about it!!

After dinner, everyone was keen to have an early night and went to bed. The night sky was completely clear meaning it is bloody cold but also absolutely full of stars, it's a spectacular view. Used the toilet for the first time, surprisingly easy, although Tash went in after me and said she nearly gagged! Ha ha! I don't think that's 100% my doing!

I then spent 30 minutes writing this diary entry for today. Another interesting day, shame I felt so rough, I suspect it was heat/sun stroke climbing that mental hill.

Thursday, February 08, 2024

Kilimanjaro Climb - Day 1

Didn't sleep too well to be honest, mostly thinking about the day ahead. Woke up a few times but didn't get up until we had to about 6.45am. Last pack up of things and then down for breakfast.

Made our way down to reception at the agreed time and checked out. Chediel and his group of porters, etc were there along with the other group he mentioned last night, so we're 13 people and the other group is 12 and won't be anything to do with us at all. There were a couple of other companies about as well as this is clearly a popular hotel for them to use. Gradually our full complement of intrepid explorers got together and exchanged nervous small talk and introductions.

We have me, Natasha, Pauline, John, Chris, Nicole, Elizabeth, James, Phil, Denise, Lynn, Dan and Moya.

We went outside and all our group of porters were singing and dancing on the front lawn and very quickly we all joined in - photos and videos were obviously taken. (This was to a be theme for the whole expedition as they like to keep everyone at home updated on Facebook).

We then clambered aboard our bus along with the guides, there wasn't room to swing a cat but if was fine and we set off back along the road we came only a couple of days earlier. After an hour or so we stopped so the guys could get their breakfasts. Quite clearly a fixed stop because loads of buses came and went too. I had a look around and was approached to buy things I didn't need. 

Back on the bus quite soon for the next 3 hours to drive to Lemosho Gate. On the way we got a great glimpse of Kili rising above the clouds, it looked great and impressive. Very shortly it was hidden from view and we were moving through the first of the five zones of Kili, the Cultivation Zone. This was farming and forestry, the road turned into nothing more than a bumpy dirt track as we finally arrived at the Lemosho Gate entrance along with loads of other groups.

Quite a bit of waiting around and then we got some lunch and the chit chat continued as we got to know each of the people on our tour. Saw some Columbus monkeys near the toilets and then after a group photo we set off along the trail - we were on our way! Naomi took point and led.

We have constantly been made aware that the pace of the trek would be "pole, pole" - "slowly, slowly" but fuck me, I didn't expect it to be the snail's pace that Naomi kept us to. It was actually quite tough walking at that pace, but it was all to maintain a steady approach and conserve oxygen - certainly in the later more challenge climate we would be experiencing. They obviously know what they are doing and if it helps us complete the challenge then they'll be no complaints from me. 

People chatted as they walk along as the group of strangers tried to get to know each other. Lot of porters loaded up with bags and provisions (always a loaf of bread with nearly every one of them!) were walking past us, making us feel guilty that we were only carrying our day packs! We saw more monkeys so that was quite exciting for all concerned, it's always nice to see animals like that in the wild and not captivity.

There was only one downside to the afternoon, we were walking through a rain forest and as we know from Borneo, it rains! It came and went a few times and the last time it hammered it down. I had my poncho from the Rewind Festival, not so sure how good a job it was doing but there wasn't much I could do about it.

Anyway, around 5.15pm, having set out at 2.00pm we arrived at our camp () for the night. We took photos at the sign post and then checked in to the official station as they need to keep a register of all those passing through. 

Our tents were already set up but before that we had a demonstration of how to use the toilet, "basic" doesn't come close to describing them, but we knew what we were signing up for! (some of us did anyway, we can come to Denise & Lynn later!)

We then went to our tents and this is where I struggled because it was very muddy already, was a medium sized two man tent and we were trying to get sorted. Our clothes were wet, making our bedding wet and feet dirty, etc etc. We're hardy campers from experience but this was challenging. Did our best to be organised but as I write this I am wondering what my clothes will be like in the morning.

So, after a bit we went to the Mess tent to join the others where we were all seated at a communal table with small chairs where we had hot drinks and popcorn. 

I am typing this from my handwritten diary in September and this is bringing back so many memories already - I can smell the hot chocolate in the plastic cup even now! 

We all reflected on our first day experience, people were chirpy and happy so that's a good sign. Naomi ate with us (I think the guides will take it in turns) and Chediel told us the plan for tomorrow:

5.30am - wake up with coffee in our tents

6.00am - get up and pack

6.30am - breakfast in the Mess tent

7.00am/7.30am - (as soon as we're all ready) - off we go for an 8 hour hike

We were then tested for blood oxygen level and heart rate (97 & 67) which was well within the acceptable range.

Finally we had dinner, tonight it was chicken and cucumber soup and then fried fish, potatoes and salad. Really tasty and it went down well! At the end the chefs came in to be applauded and thanked. With an early start tomorrow everyone decided on an early night and went their separate ways.

We were a bit better organised getting into bed but still brushed our teeth in the tent and swallowed so as to not have to venture outside..

I hope we have managed to keep the number of insects in here down to a minimum, we shall see how many bites we have in the morning I guess! 

It's taken me about 20 minutes writing this diary entry, I suspect it will be less in the coming days as there won't be so much to report on, we'll see.

Hoping I don't need a wee in the middle of the night...

It's been a good start to the trek, I am sure there will be a few wobbles but I think everyone will be supportive and encouraging all throughout, we seem to have a nice bunch.

The five zones of Kilimanjaro are:

1. Cultivation
2. Rain forest
3. Moorland
4. Alpine
5. Summit

Wednesday, February 07, 2024

Kilimanjaro Trip. Day 3. Wednesday

Slept okay, awake at 6.00am, back to sleep and then woken by 9.00am alarm and down for breakfast, no sign of Johns bag so starting to get a bit more worried.

Decent breakfast, made the most of it, then into reception and a bright yellow bag was waiting for its owner…massive relief all round. That certainly cheered everyone up.

John and Pauline stayed up in their room to sort out his re-packing and we sat by the pool chatting to people who are in the same hike as us tomorrow, one of them actually from Thame. Couldn’t believe it, small world.

After sorting their packing they came down to the pool and we went out for a walk into Arusha. Quite nice walk down but got stared at a lot, hardly surprising really as we were the only white people in the village! Made it to the town centre and then got approached by someone every 30 steps. Wasn’t bad or uncomfortable but just annoying. However, you can obviously understand why because everything is so cheap so getting money off tourists would be a massive bonus. We negotiated that area and went to the bank and decided we’d had enough so walked back via another route. It was still interesting seeing the way of life.

Back at the sanctuary of the hotel we had beers, cocktails and food by the pool. It was busy, found out the people we spoke to this morning are part of our group of 13 so that’s nice. Loads of people by the pool today. Busy.

Up to the room around 5.30pm and relaxed trying not to fall asleep. Down for dinner and loads of water and back up at 9.00pm for an early night, although messed about with our bags again weighing them. Mine are a fraction heavy but they can’t possibly be fussy enough over a few grams! We’ll see, bed at 10.00pm. Early start tomorrow.

Tuesday, February 06, 2024

Kilimanjaro Trip. Day 2. Tuesday

That was a bit stressful!!

The flight was okay and we managed to sleep a bit and we landed at 7.10am with our connecting flight at 7.20am we resigned ourselves to having to sort out a new flight etc.

As we approached the Transfers area they were shouting “Kilimanjaro?” and directing us to security and gate. We ran all the way, that was amusing but we made it. They’d actually held our plane back and we boarded at 7.45am. How lucky was that? Quickest I’ve run for a long time…🤣🤣

Now sat on the plane waiting for other passengers from our flight who didn’t run and for our bags to be loaded. So relieved as it would obviously have been hassle and lost time to sort the new flight. We were relaxed about it in a way because we have two days to play with. No need to worry about that now though because we’re here!!

That just shows there’s no point worrying about things you’re not in control of. That would have been so much lost energy.

The plane is only 4 seats wide and they just said the flight is 30mins. We think that’s the shortest we’ve been on. Expecting turbulence!

We got a glimpse of the mountain as we flew in, rising up above the clouds and bright sunshine. So cool, hard to believe we going to try and climb it.

Got off and no issues with security but we waited for John’s bag…and waited…and waited. Nightmare, it was not loaded on the plane, that’s what I was worried about for myself and it happened to John. He did the necessary paperwork and is hopeful it will arrive later today, but that’s definitely a stress we could do without, I can’t believe how calm he was. I know it’s something you have no control over but I’d be panicking about all I needed for the climb.

Anyway, we met our tour guide, Chediel who is going to be lead guide on the trek, and jumped in a van and drove for an hour to our hotel. The drive was the usual madness through shanty towns and shacks and coaches of people. Gradually the quality of life improved and there was more concrete and less dust and we got to our hotel, Mount Meru. Very nice indeed.

In reception we had a welcome drink and met Daniel and Elizabeth who are on our trek. We later found out there are 13 people on it.

We had a brief of what to expect over the coming days. We then went and unpacked and Chediel came and checked what we had and what we needed so that’s all sorted.

Got some trunks on and came down to relax by the pool. About 28 degrees so hot hot hot. Had some pizza and a few beers and chilled. Slept loads, very relaxing. Up to the room and more sorting and packing and then down for food in the restaurant, didn’t venture out and had pasta and beers. Not a late night, even though it was about 6.30pm UK time (3 hrs ahead here) we were all knackered and went to bed.

A long day but it still amazes me how in a few short hours we can be in not only a different country but a vastly different culture.

Monday, February 05, 2024

Le Manoir

 Made our way to Le Manoir, Lewis drove. They were all suitably impressed with it and we were welcomed in.

Sat in a reception area and had a bottle of fizz between us and then through to the main area which was in the conservatory. We had a nice big table to ourselves and it was busy in there.

What I loved was that the other people were of “an age” and we were in there with our 20-something kids as a family group. I was so proud there and then.

We had 7 courses and wine and they all absolutely loved it. Not surprising, that’s the idea to treat them and spoil them. But to also make them appreciate how good food can be.

When we finished we sat in the gardens for teas/coffees and sweet bits and then wandered around the grounds - it was lovely and a special day that I think they all really appreciated.

Got some great photos of them - loved it.



Kilimanjaro Trip. Day 1. Monday

Woke up around 6.00am after an appalling nights sleep, not good prep for our day ahead really but there you go. Said goodbyes to Charl and got home and I went straight to work around 8.15am with a strict time limit of an hour which I kept to.

Got sorted and packed etc the rest of the morning whilst Tash was out seeing her mum and family. Clock was ticking down and Jess arrived to take us all to the airport and we somehow got the suitcases into the car and away we went. Journey was nice and easy as was everything in the airport, no issues with security and had a nice meal waiting. Waiter was a bit of a character.

Posted on Facebook and that went down well as you’d expect and then waited at our gate, and waited!! 5.25pm should have been our flight but we didn’t actually board until 6.00pm and then we just sat on the plane not doing anything!

This is really worrying. I’m typing this at 19.25 and we should have left two hours ago. We boarded late but we’ve been sat in sweltering conditions with no aircon for about 90 mins. He keeps trying to start up the engines and is resetting the electrics every now and then. I really think there’s a good chance we will have to get off and change planes. People are getting fidgety and anxious, we have a connecting flight too. That’s assuming we can get airborne. Fingers crossed.

Ok, it’s now 7.45pm and we’ve started moving. Bit concerned about our connecting flight as originally we had 3hrs layover but 2.5hrs have been used up. Could be a bit hairy at the airport and a bit of a run required!!

Nothing we can do about it, just sit back for a 9hr flight in this very uncomfortable seat!!

Update whilst in the air, the landing time is due for 7.40am. Our flight was 7.20am and other flights are 8.20am. I think it’s safe to say we’re not flying in the morning. They can’t tell us anything, we just have to speak to someone when we land. I think there’s a flight on the evening. Shame if we have to spend the whole day in the airport! Will find out in about 7 hours time, need to get some sleep I guess